Gua Sha for Smile Lines: Direction, Pressure & What It Won't Do
Learn how to use gua sha for smile lines and nasolabial folds: correct stroke direction, light pressure, and what this technique can and can't do.
Part of our guide to Hand and Stone Massage Facial Spa: Gua Sha & Face Massage Guide.
Gua sha can soften the appearance of smile lines and nasolabial folds by easing tension and encouraging fluid movement, but it won’t erase them. The folds themselves are a natural part of how your face moves, and no tool or hand technique removes them permanently. What gua sha does well is reduce the puffiness and tightness that make those lines look deeper than they are — and the effect is temporary, lasting hours to a day or two.
This guide covers the exact direction, pressure, and order I use in the MEWAI daily routine, plus an honest look at what this technique does not do. If you’re new to the stone, start with the basics: always glide over oil or cream, hold the stone nearly flat, and use light pressure — a glide, not a massage.
The Right Direction for Smile Lines
The organizing rule for the face is outward from the center, toward the ear. Lymph drains toward nodes in front of and behind the ears, under the jaw, and at the collarbone, so you’re always moving fluid toward those exit points.
For the nasolabial fold area specifically, the stroke is horizontal and slightly upward, from the side of the nose out toward the ear. Start at the corner of the nose, glide along the fold itself, and continue outward past the cheekbone. This is not a downward stroke — downward pushes fluid into the fold and makes it look deeper.
Here’s the step-by-step for the mid-face:
- Apply a few drops of facial oil or cream so the stone glides, never drags.
- Hold the stone almost flat against your skin — the edge is never correct for any area.
- Start at the side of your nose, just beside the nostril.
- Glide outward along the nasolabial fold toward your ear, with light pressure.
- Repeat 3–5 times, then move to the other side.
- Finish by sweeping from the corner of your mouth outward to the ear, and from the jawline up to the ear.
Keep the pressure light. You should feel the stone resting on the skin, not digging in. If you see redness that lasts more than a few minutes, you’re pressing too hard.
What About the Rest of the Face?
Smile lines don’t exist in isolation — the cheeks, eyes, and jaw all connect. In the daily session, I cover four areas in five minutes: brow and forehead, eye area, cheeks and mid-face, and neck. For the cheeks, the same outward rule applies: glide from the nose toward the ear, covering the whole cheek in parallel lines. For the eye area, work only on the bone — the brow ridge and orbital bone — never on the lid or over the eyeball. For the forehead, stroke up and out from between the brows toward the temples.
The Neck: The Exit Route
The neck is the one place where direction reverses. Always stroke downward, from under the jaw to the collarbone. This is the exit route for everything you moved off the face — if you stroke upward on the neck, you push fluid back into the face. So: on the neck, never stroke upward.
After finishing the cheeks, take a few strokes down the sides of the neck, then down the front, always toward the collarbone. This completes the drainage pattern.
How Often and How Long
Once a day, five minutes, is enough. You don’t need to spend ten minutes on the folds — overworking the area can irritate the skin. Consistency matters more than duration. In the app, the daily session is designed to fit into a morning or evening routine, and you can re-scan weekly to see side-by-side progress photos.
What Gua Sha Does NOT Do
Let’s be clear about limits, because most of what you read online oversells this.
- It does not stimulate collagen production. Massage does not stimulate collagen. No hand or stone technique does. Claims that gua sha “boosts collagen” are not supported by evidence.
- It does not permanently reduce wrinkles. The effect is temporary. You’re moving fluid and relaxing muscle tension, not changing the structure of your skin.
- It does not treat medical conditions. If your smile lines are related to a skin condition, allergies, or something else, see a dermatologist. Gua sha is a cosmetic practice, not a treatment.
- It won’t prevent new lines. Expression lines are part of how your face works. Gua sha can’t stop them from forming.
What it can do is make the area look smoother and less puffy for a while, and it feels relaxing. That’s worth doing — just know what you’re getting.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Using the edge of the stone. The edge concentrates force and causes bruising and broken capillaries. Always hold the stone flat.
- Pressing hard. Light pressure is the rule. If it hurts, you’re doing it wrong.
- Dragging on dry skin. Always use oil or cream.
- Stroking downward on the face. Downward on the cheeks pushes fluid into the fold. Outward is correct.
- Working over the eyeball. Never press on the closed lid. Work on the bone only.
A Note on Expectations
If you search “gua sha smile lines reddit,” you’ll find mixed reports — some people see a difference, others don’t. That’s honest. The effect depends on how much of the line’s appearance is due to fluid and tension versus deep structural creasing. If your lines are mostly from fluid, you’ll see more change. If they’re from years of muscle movement and skin aging, you’ll see less.
Try it for a few weeks, take photos, and compare. You might find that your face looks fresher and the lines look softer after each session — and that’s a reasonable goal.
Putting It Together
Here’s a quick recap of the routine for smile lines:
- Oil or cream on clean skin.
- Hold the stone flat, light pressure.
- Glide outward from nose to ear along the fold (3–5 times).
- Sweep from mouth corner to ear, and jawline to ear.
- Finish with downward strokes on the neck.
- Do this once a day, about five minutes total.
That’s the whole practice. It’s simple, but the details — direction, pressure, and order — are what make it work. Stick with it, and treat it as a daily ritual rather than a one-time fix.
How Gua Sha Works on Smile Lines
Smile lines, also called nasolabial folds, are the creases that run from the sides of your nose to the corners of your mouth. They form from repeated facial expressions, skin aging, and fluid retention. Gua sha addresses the fluid and tension components, not the structural crease itself.
When you glide the stone outward toward the ear, you’re encouraging lymphatic drainage. The lymph nodes sit in front of and behind the ears, under the jaw, and at the collarbone. Moving fluid toward these nodes reduces puffiness around the folds, which can make the lines appear shallower. The effect is temporary, but consistent practice can keep the area looking fresher.
Choosing the Right Tool
You don’t need an expensive stone. A basic gua sha tool made of jade, rose quartz, or stainless steel works fine. The shape matters less than how you use it. A curved edge that fits the contour of your cheek is helpful, but any flat tool will do.
If you don’t have a stone, you can use your fingers. The same strokes work: glide outward from the nose to the ear with light pressure. The app’s routine works with bare hands, so you can start without any tools.
Integrating into Your Skincare Routine
Gua sha works best on clean, damp skin with a slip agent. Apply a few drops of facial oil or a lightweight moisturizer before you start. This prevents dragging and allows the stone to glide smoothly.
You can do gua sha in the morning to depuff or in the evening to unwind. Consistency matters more than timing. If you use retinol or exfoliants, avoid gua sha on nights when your skin is irritated or sensitized.
What to Expect in the First Weeks
In the first week, you might notice a subtle difference in puffiness, especially if you hold fluid in your face. The lines may look softer for a few hours after each session. Over a few weeks, with daily practice, the cumulative effect can make the area look smoother, but the change is gradual and temporary.
Take a photo before you start and compare it side by side with a photo after a few weeks. The app does this automatically with weekly re-scans, but you can do it manually with your phone. Photos help you see changes you might not notice day to day.
When to See a Professional
If your smile lines are deep and you want a longer-lasting change, gua sha alone won’t get you there. Cosmetic treatments like dermal fillers or laser resurfacing are options, but they come with costs and risks. A dermatologist can assess your skin and recommend appropriate treatments. Gua sha can complement these approaches, but it’s not a substitute.
If you notice redness, irritation, or broken capillaries, you’re pressing too hard or using the edge of the stone. Stop and adjust your technique.
Common questions
Does gua sha get rid of smile lines?
No, gua sha doesn't get rid of smile lines permanently. It can temporarily soften their appearance by reducing puffiness and relaxing tension, but the lines themselves are a natural part of facial movement and will return. The effect typically lasts hours to a day or two.
What direction should I use for gua sha on nasolabial folds?
Stroke outward from the side of your nose toward your ear, keeping the stone almost flat. This follows the lymphatic drainage direction toward the ear nodes. Avoid downward strokes on the face, as they push fluid into the fold.
How often should I do gua sha for smile lines?
Once a day for about five minutes is enough. Consistency matters more than duration. Overworking the area can irritate the skin, so keep the pressure light and the routine short.
Can gua sha make nasolabial folds worse?
If you use the wrong direction or too much pressure, it can temporarily increase puffiness or cause bruising, which might make the folds look deeper. But with correct technique — light pressure, outward strokes, and always using oil — it shouldn't make them worse.
Is gua sha safe for the face?
Yes, when done properly. Use light pressure, hold the stone flat, and never work over the eyeball. Avoid using the edge of the stone, which can bruise. If you have a skin condition or are unsure, check with a dermatologist first.
Sources
- Association of Facial Exercise With the Appearance of Aging — JAMA Dermatology, 2018
- Facial exercises help middle-aged women appear more youthful — Northwestern University
- Facial Exercises: Are They Bogus? — Healthline
- The effect of Gua Sha treatment on the microcirculation of surface tissue — Journal of Alternative and Complementary Medicine, 2007
General wellness information only. MEWAI is not a medical device and nothing here is a substitute for professional medical or dermatological advice. Results vary from person to person.